Postcard from Khaplu Fort - where the stone stopped rolling

During our drive across Gilgit Baltistan we’ve been able to see some amazing forts: Baltit and Altit Forts in Hunza; Shigar Fort and now Khaplu Fort (see my other blogs on each of the forts).

Khaplu Fort, like the other forts in the region, has been restored by the Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan.  This fort is yet another example of painstaking restoration.  The fort is set in Khaplu Village near the banks of the Shyok River and is surrounded by fields and orchards.  In the village you can stand and turn and have 360 degree mountain views. You can see Masherbrum, K-6, and K-7 and other mountains with beautiful names like Sherpi Kangh, Siachen and Saltoro Kangri.  

The local name for Khaplu Fort is Yabgo Khar, also known as ‘The Fort on the Roof’.  The local story is that a stone was rolled down from a nearby mountain and where the stone stopped they built the fort.  Built in the 1840’s for the local ruler Yabgo Raja Daulat Ali Kahn, it replaced an older fort.  The fort showcases the many different styles of the region: Tibetan; Balti; and Kashmiri. 

Today the Fort is run by Serena Hotels.  We stayed for three nights to explore the region.  We had a wonderful stay there.  What an experience to drink tea on an intricately carved wooden balcony and to sit on the top terrace and watch the moon rise over the mountains.  Khaplu Fort, where the stone stopped rolling, and, if you can, you should stop there too.

Main Gate

Entrance to Khaplu Fort

Khaplu Fort garden

Khaplu Fort restaurant

A lovely place to sit and enjoy a meal

Wooden lattice work

Doors open to a spectacular balcony and view

We sit and enjoy our tea

Ceiling detail

Door detail

Everywhere you look there are interesting details and objects. These boots a reminder that the sun doesn’t always shine here.

Ceiling detail

Our favourite breakfast spot

A little cool in the mornings but we had to sit outside as it was such a gorgeous view

Night falls

A romantic dinner for two was organised and we sat and watched the moon rise