Postcard from Rakaposhi
Today we drive from Gilgit to Hunza, just over 100 kilometres along the Karakoram Highway. We are looking forward to seeing a number of mountains: Rakaposhi; Diran Peak; Hunza Peak; Ulter 1 and 2; and Dastgil Sar Peak.
This part of the Highway has been completed and is smooth but sometimes very narrow. There are a number of memorials along the highway to honour the workers who died building it. We stop at one memorial and meet the custodian who tells us about the workers who died building this stretch of the Highway. The inscription reads ‘In memory of their gallant men who preferred to make the Karakorams their permanent abode’ 1966-1972.
Our next stop is to see Rakaposhi, a mountain in the Karakoram Mountains about a two hour drive north of Gilgit. At 7,788m it is the 27th highest mountain in the world or the 12th highest mountain in Pakistan. Despite only coming in at 27th, well behind K2, this mountain is loved in Pakistan and we were keen to see it up close.
Rakaposhi means ‘snow covered’ locally but the mountain is also called Dumani ‘Mother of Mist’ or ‘Mother of Clouds’. We had an exceptionally clear day and there was only the faintest hint of a cloud around the summit. Ragaposhi is situated in the Nagar Valley and as we drove along the Karakoram Highway we kept seeing enticing views.
The place to get the best views of Rakaposhi is at the Rakaposhi Viewpoint in Ghulmet where we stopped for morning tea. According to the sign at the viewpoint we were at 1,950m and we could see the highest, unbroken slope on earth. The summit is almost 6 kilometres above us and only 11 kilometres away. It is the only mountain on earth that plummets directly, uninterrupted, for almost 6,000 metres from the summit to its base.
The Viewpoint has a small café and gift shop, the tea was very good, and I couldn’t resist buying a souvenir. As we were travelling during Ramadan we were the only ones there enjoying the spectacular scenery and peace and quiet.