Postcard from Sadpara Village - a tribute to Ali Sadpara

‘In climbing there are two outcomes, life or death, and you must find the courage to accept either possibility’. Muhammad Ali Sadpara

We had planned a day trip to Deosai National Park but multiple rockslides on the road meant we had to turn back to Shigar.  The change in plans gave us the opportunity to spend more time at places of interest along the way.  

We stopped first to look down at Sadpara Village, also known as Satpara.   From the road you look across the valley.  Colourful houses gathered closely together surrounded by terraced fields.  We stood and appreciated the work involved in creating neat rectangles of fields, some bright green, some recently tilled, edged by stone walls.  As the valley walls become steeper the fields become narrower and the walls higher.  Water channels provide irrigation from streams to the fields.  

It was in Sadpara Village that Muhammad Ali Sadpara was born in February 1976.  It is easy to see when standing in his village, surrounded by mountains, why Ali Sadpara became a mountaineer.  He started as a porter, carrying heavy loads for expeditions to the Boltoro Glacier and K2, then progressed to leading expeditions.  His mountaineering achievements are numerous and include climbing eight of the fourteen ‘eight-thousanders’. 

In November 2020 we were lucky enough to meet Ali and hear him give a talk about his climbing life.  He was quietly spoken and modest about his achievements.  It was only when you see some of the video footage from his climbs that you realise what an amazing but dangerous occupation Ali had chosen.  

In January and February of 2021 Ali and his son Sajid planned another expedition to K2 along with the Icelandic mountaineer John Snorri and Chilean mountaineer Juan Pablo Mohr.  On 4 February Sajid returned from the highest camp due to equipment problems while the other three pushed on to the summit of K2.  They failed to return and despite rescue missions have not been found.   The whole of Pakistan mourned the loss of its most successful mountaineer and a family their dear husband and father.  

 "To all the climbers... who look up to him. I promise I will carry on his dreams and mission and continue to walk in his footsteps." Sajid Sadpara

Postscript: It has been reported in the media today that the bodies of Ali Sadpara, John Snorri and Juan Pablo Mohr have been found just above the area known as the Bottleneck on K2. May you all now rest in peace.

Road to Deosai, whole parts of the road ripped away

I’m not sure why I am smiling as these huge boulders blocked our way to Deosai.

Sadpara Village on the far right, tucked in close to the mountain side

Sadpara Lake in the distance

We round a corner and there is this beautiful bridge

Our wonderful guide Mehrab willing to climb out on a rock so that I can get a great shot

A less adventurous photo

Ali Sadpara, event hosted by the Canadian High Commission, November 2020

Sadpara Lake

Postcard from Rakaposhi

Today we drive from Gilgit to Hunza, just over 100 kilometres along the Karakoram Highway.  We are looking forward to seeing a number of mountains: Rakaposhi; Diran Peak; Hunza Peak; Ulter 1 and 2; and Dastgil Sar Peak.

This part of the Highway has been completed and is smooth but sometimes very narrow.  There are a number of memorials along the highway to honour the workers who died building it.  We stop at one memorial and meet the custodian who tells us about the workers who died building this stretch of the Highway.  The inscription reads ‘In memory of their gallant men who preferred to make the Karakorams their permanent abode’ 1966-1972.

Our next stop is to see Rakaposhi, a mountain in the Karakoram Mountains about a two hour drive north of Gilgit.  At 7,788m it is the 27th highest mountain in the world or the 12th highest mountain in Pakistan.  Despite only coming in at 27th, well behind K2, this mountain is loved in Pakistan and we were keen to see it up close.  

Rakaposhi means ‘snow covered’ locally but the mountain is also called Dumani ‘Mother of Mist’ or ‘Mother of Clouds’.   We had an exceptionally clear day and there was only the faintest hint of a cloud around the summit.  Ragaposhi is situated in the Nagar Valley and as we drove along the Karakoram Highway we kept seeing enticing views.

The place to get the best views of Rakaposhi is at the Rakaposhi Viewpoint in Ghulmet where we stopped for morning tea.  According to the sign at the viewpoint we were at 1,950m and we could see the highest, unbroken slope on earth.  The summit is almost 6 kilometres above us and only 11 kilometres away.  It is the only mountain on earth that plummets directly, uninterrupted, for almost 6,000 metres from the summit to its base.  

The Viewpoint has a small café and gift shop, the tea was very good, and I couldn’t resist buying a souvenir.   As we were travelling during Ramadan we were the only ones there enjoying the spectacular scenery and peace and quiet.  

Travelling along the Karakoram Highway from Gilgit to Hunza

Karakoram Highway Memorial

Memorial and cemetery custodian

Seating area next to memorial

We are driving alongside the Hunza River

Beautiful vistas keep opening up

The milky green of the Hunza River

Roadway on other side of the valley, tall Poplar trees along each ridge

Down below in the valley, terraced farms covering every available piece of land

View from our car - the road can be very narrow

At least you get to see Truck art details up close

Rakaposhi Viewpoint Cafe

My souvenir purchase - a traditional hat from Hunza - hand embroidered on cloth. Women wear them with a scarf over the top

Rakaposhi Viewpoint Cafe

Rakaposhi

A final road stop before continuing on to Hunza

My favourite view of Rakaposhi, terraced farms, flags flying in the wind