Postcards from Pakistan

Gaynor Shaw 4/16/21 Gaynor Shaw 4/16/21

Postcard from Abbasi Royal Graveyard

Our final stop for the day was the Abbasi Royal Graveyard. It was a short but dusty drive to the graveyard where we waited for the caretaker to come and open the gate. A large key was extracted from a pocket of the caretaker’s shalwar kemeez and the door was slowly opened. There are several tombs here, individual tombs for wives and relatives and the main Nawab tomb. The Nawab tomb contains the graves of all 12 Nawabs that ruled Bahawalpur. The outside is red brick with traditional Multani blue and white glazed tiles. Inside the tomb you can see the individual tombs respectfully covered in white cloth. The interior is highly decorated with frescoes, elaborate wood doors and tile and mirror work. We started our visit to the Cholistan Desert with the fort and man’s attempt to control his environment, we then visited the mosque and contemplated life today and ended at the graveyard and a reminder that one day we will all return to dust.

Gaynor Shaw 4/15/21 Gaynor Shaw 4/15/21

Postcard from Abbasi Mosque, Cholistan Desert

From the top of one of the bastions of Derawar Fort you can see the Mosque’s three white domes shining through the afternoon haze. The Mosque was built in 1849 by Nawab Bahawal Khan Abbasi. Covered in white marble the mosque is symmetrical with minarets and decorative arches and Islamic calligraphy. The design was supposed to have been inspired by either the Shah Jahan’s Moti (Pearl) Mosque in Agra or the Moti Mosque at the Red Fort in Dehli.

We had time for a quick stop to see the mosque before continuing our journey. We took off our shoes and I covered my head. Inside the courtyard it was hot in the afternoon sun and very quiet. Time for a moment of quiet contemplation.

Gaynor Shaw 4/14/21 Gaynor Shaw 4/14/21

Postcard from Derawar Fort, Cholistan Desert - a fortress of truly towering proportions

We leave Bahawalpur behind and travel another 100 kilometres into the Cholistan Desert. Derawar Fort rises up out of the desert and the colour of the surrounding sand is matched by the millions of small, narrow bricks that make up the fort.

40 bastions standing 30 metres tall, 1500 metres of wall make up the square shape of the fort. Each bastion is decorated with intricate brick work patterns. As you get closer you can’t believe the scale of the building, seemingly built in the middle of nowhere.

When the Fort was built in the 9th century it stood next to the Hakra River and was a defensive point to protect valuable water resources on caravan and pilgrim routes across the desert. It was built for Rai Jajja Bhati, a Hindu king from Jaisalmer, India. The fort changed hands many times and in the 18th century it became the property of the Nawabs of Bahawalpur, who rebuilt it in 1732.

Inside the Fort are many buildings, most in a poor state of repair. The Bahawalpur Department of Archaeology is working to restore parts of the fort but more work and funds are required. We visited one bastion where the structure has been repaired and new frescoes painted but it is a shame that the original frescoes are not protected.

The fort is currently on the tentative list of sites to be included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. UNESCO defines cultural and natural heritages as “irreplaceable sources of life and inspiration…our touchstones, our points of reference, our identity”. Derawar Fort certainly meets that definition.