Postcards from Pakistan

Postcard from Baltit Fort

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When you first arrive in Hunza you can see Baltit Fort sitting high above the valley with a wondrous backdrop of snow-covered mountains.  It is close to Altit Fort (the subject of my previous blog) but where Altit sits next to the Hunza River, Baltit Fort seems to float in front of the mountains and the Ultar Glacier.  

Be ready for a steep climb through the town of Karimabad to reach the entrance to Baltit Fort and then be ready to climb more steps to get to the front door and yet more steps inside.  The effort is worth it.  Baltit Fort is an impressive building with even more impressive views of the whole Hunza Valley.  

The site was obviously chosen for its strategic importance for security, water and trade.  The Fort was built 700 years ago on a flattened rock spur and floors and rooms have been added over time. Notable changes came about in the 16th century when the local Mir (king) married a Baltistan princess.  As part of her dowry renovations were made by Balti craftsmen and you can see Tibetan influences in the shape of the ceilings and on door supports.  

In my last blog on Altit Fort I wrote about two princes, Prince Shah Abbas and Prince Ali Khan and their disagreement that led to the death of the younger prince.   Prince Shah Abbas made Baltit Fort the new seat of power for the region.  It remained the palace until 1945 when the Mir built a new palace close by.

Left empty and in need of serious repairs there was concern that the Fort would become a ruin.  Six years of renovations were completed in 1996 by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture.  The renovations have been done exceptionally well and have kept the original feel of the Fort.  From the soot stained and charred ceilings in the kitchens to the colourful mosaic windows open to the cool wind from the surrounding mountains you can start to imagine what life must have been like here.   

Baltit Fort at the foot of the Ultar Glacier

Baltit Fort at the foot of the Ultar Glacier

Baltit Fort sits on a flattened spur of rock

Baltit Fort sits on a flattened spur of rock

Walking past traditional houses in Karimabad

Walking past traditional houses in Karimabad

History around and above every corner

History around and above every corner

Water was and still is a valuable resource.  Water channels were built across Karimabad

Water was and still is a valuable resource. Water channels were built across Karimabad

Side view of Baltit Fort with clear lines of wood and stone

Side view of Baltit Fort with clear lines of wood and stone

Just a few more steps to get inside the Fort

Just a few more steps to get inside the Fort

Local with traditional woollen Gilgiti cap with shaati feather

Local with traditional woollen Gilgiti cap with shaati feather

Maintenance of Fort and surrounding buildings is hard work as all stone has to be carried by foot

Maintenance of Fort and surrounding buildings is hard work as all stone has to be carried by foot

Cannon from 1863

Cannon from 1863

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View of Hunza Valley from top terrace

View of Hunza Valley from top terrace

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Tibetan inspired ceiling above the kitchen

Tibetan inspired ceiling above the kitchen

Centuries of soot and smoke

Centuries of soot and smoke

What do you think this box was used for?

What do you think this box was used for?

Ceiling detail

Ceiling detail

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Traditional Hunza woven rugs

Traditional Hunza woven rugs

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In the mid ground you can see Altit Fort

In the mid ground you can see Altit Fort

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