Postcard from Thoqsikhar Mosque - a steep climb for the best green tea

We are staying in Khaplu that is in the Ghanche district, the easternmost district of Gilgit-Baltistan.  To the north is China, to the south is Kashmir.  I love hearing these beautiful sounding place names, even before arriving it sounded like a magical, exotic place.  

If you visit this area of Pakistan you must bring your hiking boots with you as the best views can only be seen on foot.  So we pulled on our hiking boots and set out to visit Thoqsikhar Mosque that sits high above the Khaplu Valley.  

It is difficult to find any information in English about this five hundred year old mosque that sits at over 2,700 meters, high above the Khaplu Valley.  The mosque is also known as Thoksikhar, Thoqsi Khar, or Thoksi Ghar.  We drove to Gharbuchang Village to start the walk.  Our guide, Mehrab, told us that it was a gentle walk and should take around 45 minutes to reach the top.  The walk through the village was gentle, as was the first five minutes around the fields.  Children peeked out from behind gates and a little goat followed us until a cow looked like more fun to play with.  However the next 40 minutes of the walk was steep.  It was hard work walking at altitude.  I kept stopping to take photographs but it also gave me an opportunity to catch my breath.  

Up and up we climbed.  The views of the village and the valley kept getting better and better.  Close to the mosque we were met by two local men who offered us tea and a place to sit and rest.  We decided to keep going and stop on the way back.  We finally reached the mosque and were able to enter and walk around the outside terrace.  Past the mosque there is a short walk to reach the lookout where you get spectacular views of the Khaplu Valley.   We enjoyed the cooling breeze, took more photos and then turned around to head back down before the sun set.  At a small terrace a local, green tea was ready and waiting for us.   We sat and enjoyed the tea and the view – both were wonderful.     

Thoqsikhar Mosque sitting high above the Khaplu Valley

Gharbuchang Village

Gharbuchang Village

Gharbuchang Village

Looking back across the valley at Gharbuchang Village

Getting closer to the mosque

Gharbuchang Village and Thoqsikhar Mosque

Mehrab places a stone to celebrate that we made it this far.

Stopping to catch my breath

Thoqsikhar Mosque

Thoqsikhar Mosque

Entry to the terrace that surrounds the mosque

Inside the mosque

The lookout

Khaplu Valley

Down in the valley below we can see Khaplu Fort

Excellent maker of green tea

The tea, the view.